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When people close their eyes and dream of Florida, this is
what they see: ribbons of white sand shimmering in the tropical
heat. Blue, blue water rippling gently toward the shore. Palm
trees swaying and rustling in a slight breeze. Good-looking
skinny people wearing next-to-nothing bikinis and working on
their tans. And in the background, cotton-candy-colored buildings
from the days when vacations were languid and hotel rooms didn't
come from cookie-cutter chains.
Miami Beach is where fantasy meets reality like a wave kisses
the sand. It's seven miles of sun-splashed shoreline, connected
to the mainland by five causeways and a shimmery vision of...
anything you can imagine. It's a place that's simultaneously
moneyed and bohemian, up-to-date and antique, cool and hot-hot-hot.
It's also a separate city, thank you very much, not just some
sandy appendage of the metropolis across the bay. People actually
live here, many of them on the north end of the island in Surfside,
Bal Harbour, North Beach and Sunny Isles. But it's tourism that
makes the place tick. Visitors come from around the world and
across Biscayne Bay. On weekends, as many as 30,000 people cross
the causeways looking for a good time. Traffic is murder, so
find a parking space early and hoof it. Hop on to one of the
free electric buses which go up and down the main drags.
South Beach, or SoBe to those in the know, is the heart of the
Miami Beach vision. It's the American Riveria, funky and eclectic
and hip and young and eccentric and historic. Its residents
are artists and writers and models and musicians, but everybody
comes to visit. And now you're here. The first thing you do
after you drop your bags in one of those funky deco hotels is
slather on the suntan oil and hit the beach. Right' Not so fast.
The island has several stretches of sand to choose from, each
with its own personality, level of trendiness and see-and-be-seen
quotient.
Most popular is Lummus Park, which runs roughly from 6th to
14th streets. Surf is gentle, the water is clear and blue and
the bottom slopes so gently you can wade far out into the sea.
The white sand is perfect for volleyball games. A concrete walkway
runs most of the length of the beach and is popular with joggers,
strollers and inline skaters. The beautiful people come here
to bronze themselves in tiny, tiny bathing suits. While you're
admiring them, keep your eyes peeled for models on photo shoots.
South Pointe Park at the island's southern tip is family friendly
with a swimming beach and a playground for the kids. For swimming
without the crowds, try the 85th Street Beach along Collins
Avenue. A few blocks north, at 96th Street, is Bal Harbour Beach,
the place to go if you like shell hunting. Haulover Beach Park
just north of Bal Harbour is known for two things: surfing and
nude sunbathing. Remember, it's rude to gawk.
On land, SoBe's art deco architecture is worth an afternoon
afoot. The best examples of the neighborhood's whimsical, outrageous
architecture date to the 1920s and '30s. Once neglected almost
to the point of demolition, the district - essentially Ocean
Drive, Collins Avenue and Washington Avenue between 6th and
23rd streets - now contains some 800 buildings on the National
Register of Historic Places. Structures have been spruced up
and refurbished in their original sherbet shades. Guided walking
and bicycle tours are available through the Art Deco District
Welcome Center. Or you can see the sights on your own.
Some highlights: The Breakwater Hotel with its Mayan temple
façade; the Mediterranean Revival-style Edison Hotel
next door, which shares a pool with the Breakwater; the Park
Central Hotel, known for its terrazzo floors and front steps
and etched glass details; the cubist-inspired Victor Hotel;
the Miami Beach main post office, which features a circular
rotunda and a historical mural; the seafaring motif of the Essex
House; and the Clevelander Hotel, which still has its original
pool and sun deck.
As long as you're out and about, take a look at:
- Gianni Versace's house (Ocean Drive at 11th). The Italian designer
was gunned down on the steps of his mansion, the only privately
owned residence on Ocean Drive.
- Lincoln Road mall, a luxurious pedestrian shopping temple
also designed by Lapidus. It features clothing and art boutiques,
plus a cineplex and several restaurants and clubs.
- Farther up Collins Ave, past 41st Street, the Fontainebleau
Hilton Resort and Towers. This splashy resort icon is much photographed
and known for its 10-story trompe l'oeil mural of a lagoon and
waterfalls.
- the Eden Roc Resort & Spa, next door to the Fontainebleau
and designed by the same architect, Morris Lapidus.
And now night falls and the neon flickers on and this place
really starts to sizzle. Miami Beach - and SoBe in particular
- is a town for night owls, not early birds. The party starts
late and can last until breakfast.
Most evenings get under way with dinner - and don't even think
about eating at 6, or even 7. An evening meal at 9 or 10 or
even later isn't unusual here - probably because it takes that
long to choose from among all the yummy offerings. But deciding
is half the fun. Walk the streets, read the menus, indulge in
the enticing aromas. No matter which you pick, it'll be an experience.
Chances are, the place will have tables on the sidewalk, too
- so snag one. They make a dandy perch from which to watch the
local wildlife.
Of course you'll want to eat and party with the trendoids,
but beware: the popularity of SoBe restaurants and clubs can
change faster than a model can slip into a new outfit. Not only
do they open and close with some regularity, what's 'in' this
morning may be 'out' by dinner. One place that's always 'in'
is Joe's Stone Crab. It's a regular institution. Expect long
lines, high prices and waiters who'll berate you if you order
anything but the specialty of the house. A table on the terrace
at News Café is a primo spot from which to people-watch.
Isn't that girl the one in the bathing suit ad' That's what's-his-name
from that TV show! It's also a good place to get a healthy breakfast
the morning after. One spot for Cuban is Larios on the Beach,
owned by Miami singer Gloria Estefan. Meanwhile, the menu at
Mango's includes Mexican, Caribbean, Cuban and vegetarian dishes
- and salsa music in the club. If you really want to spend money,
try the Astor Place at the Astor Hotel. Both restaurant and
bar cater to a sophisticated crowd. Likewise for Wish at The
Hotel. Hey, take a chance - just look for the biggest crowd,
the loudest music and the scantiest outfits and you can't possibly
go wrong.
After dinner, it's time to party. Living Room at the Strand
is a hot spot for Euros and beautiful people. Oliver Stone and
Harrison Ford used to hang at Chaos, while the college crowd
goes for Howl at the Moon Saloon. For Latin beat, check out
Studio 23 or Yuca. If you have two left gringo feet, you can
learn to salsa at Starfish.
Now that you've done the party scene, you should know that
Miami Beach also has a serious side. The Wolfsonian Foundation
houses an eclectic collection that reflects the cultural, political
and technological changes of the decades preceding World War
II. Look for the Jazz Age kitchen appliances and the hand-tooled
Braille version of Mein Kampf. The Bass Museum is the island's
only fine art repository. Its holdings range from Old Masters
to ecclesiastical artifacts. The Sanford L. Ziff Jewish Museum
of Florida tells the story of a people whose Sunshine State
roots go back more than 200 years. Miami has the second largest
Jewish community in the United States (second only to New York
City) and one of the largest enclaves of Holocaust survivors.
Housed in a former synagogue, the museum's exhibits range from
stained glass windows to family photos. The Holocaust Memorial
commemorates the 6 million Jews who perished under the Nazis.
Pay particular attention to the large bronze hand in the plaza.
Just because you've sunned, sipped, shopped and strolled,
don't even begin to think that you've exhausted Miami Beach's
possibilities. There's plenty to do when you return again...
and again... and again.
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Miami Beach Condos 
